Candid’s Fashion & Grooming Editor, Ross Pollard reviews E. Tautz at London Fashion Week Men’s for spring/summer 2020.
E. Tautz is one of Britain’s oldest labels. It has made clothes for kings and prime ministers, but for many it’s more remembered as a label from the last decade, when Patrick Grant breathed new life into the brand.
This season, E. Tautz looked to its history in the themes and notes of the collection.
This was a collection of mixed influences, at times dipping back into the late ‘40s. I couldn’t help but be reminded of the England of J.L. Carr and his A Month in The Country, but we were also taken via the 1950s, ‘60s and dare I say, even the 1970s.
A celebration of quintessential tailoring
This was a collection of joy, a smile made in fabric – each look a celebration of quintessential tailoring that could only have been of this isle.
There was a beauty and pleasure in the romanticized nostalgia, a set of looks that warmed the heart. I have a belief that there is a way to gauge the emotional impact and resonance of a collection by the final walk. Amidst the clapping, I could see foot tapping, swaying and quite a few of us belting out Mandy as Barry Manilow brought the party to a close.
Imagine a chic young man about town
Now I know that Barry Manilow is very definitely American, he’s from Brooklyn, but imagine a chic young man about town, his schillings swapped for dollars, walking across the runway to collect his suitcase after a BOAC flight to Miami for a holiday and you have the feel of this collection.
It’s a sepia-toned memory of London transplanted and living it’s best life as it gets a bit of much-needed sunshine – the one thing the capital couldn’t give you on a regular basis.
Just Like Barry and Mandy, my wardrobe and I need you today, E. Tautz. In fact E. Tautz, have I told you lately that I love you?
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All photographs by Chris Yates.