Candid's Fashion & Grooming Editor, Ross Pollard reviews the menswear from the Phoebe English SS19 collection at London Fashion Week Men's.
“Menswear remains utilitarian”, said Phoebe English (read my recent interview with her here) in her notes on the latest showing of her undoubted skill at LFWM, and so it proved with the collection. Utilitarian yes but steeped in a simple clean chic that reflects both the austerity of our current times and the simple tailoring written large through British fashion heritage.
The signature block colours (the blues were back) a trademark of her work, were there but interspersed with a dash of almost-mustard yellow and an almost-sandstone off-white. The softness of the fabrics sets off against the seemingly industrial theme, merged into sharpness with well-cut lines. The Phoebe English collection brings to mind notes of a weathered statue upon a plinth. The small round buttons add a glimmering little note of roundness against the straightness of those clean lines.
This is a clever collection. While the looks are presented in their most complete form, it's easy to see how they can be swapped, mixed and reassembled interchangeably – a Rubik’s Cube collection that unlike that most brain-defeating of toys has multiple correct formations.
As I've said in the past, Phoebe English is for me, the leader of the new generation of young British designers. With this collection her position is enhanced. I've often said that the most important question of any objective review is would I buy it? I can say hand on heart that I'll be adding to my collection. The long coat – a pale blue duster and the reworking of a blazer might find their way into my wardrobe, and of course another bag.
Read Ross Pollard’s review of Ka Wa Key SS19.
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