You couldn’t accuse Matthew Miller of being vague about his intentions for Autumn/Winter. His show notes began with the declarative ‘I want to destroy everything’, and he certainly wasn’t kidding. Miller has been collaborating with one of the leading textile companies, Kvadrat, for a while now, and this season he applied the high quality, upholstery fabrics to a series of contemporary staples, with clean lines and touches of decomposition.
This was a happily androgynous array of closely fitted trousers, longer line tunics and impeccably cut jackets, all affected by frayed hems, patched-on pockets and exposed labels stamped with ‘Resistant’. Perhaps this was an explicit reference to the material’s characteristics, or perhaps it was Miller’s determined provocation, either way it all felt typically subversive, but free of contrived clichés.
Miller subverted these inherently expensive materials. He attacked them by ripping them apart and then sewing them back together to create something entirely new, something unexpected. Smooth, supple leather was employed to present Miller’s own version of the MA-1 bomber jacket, while the tailored outerwear already felt like the new classics in which to invest, particularly given the timeless palette of pristine whites, burgundy, navy, scarlet, and speckled stone. You certainly got the sense that he was producing something with these fabrics that, to him, felt entirely more relevant and more beautiful. Beautiful, but with the lingering implication of decay and destruction.
By Hannah Banks-Walker
Images: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com