Candid’s Fashion & Grooming Editor Ross Pollard, reviews menswear at London Fashion Week, starting with Chinese design collective, Lunyee.
Yes folks, it’s that time where I start to bring you the best menswear I saw at London Fashion Week. We’re starting with Lunyee, a collective of Chinese designers led by Saini Chan and Sophie Han. Based in Shenzen, their collection reflected that change from fishing village to metropolis.
Picking up on elements of the sea – the meshes of nets, the blue hues of water and the waved edging, then giving way to the modern city and the streetwear that is driving the explosion of incredible fashion throughout the region including the suiting that no cityscape would be without.
There is a modernity to all the looks that swaggered down the catwalk. Swagger it did. This is a collection with confidence and verve, and one that looks at Europe and gives it all it’s got. The growing confidence of Asian designers has increasingly changed the dynamic of our fashion week and Lunyee came and conquered.
As the models moved across the marbled floors and towering ceilings of Fashion Scout’s iconic home, Freemasons’ Hall, the venue offered the perfect juxtaposition of the old with its solid architecture against the new of the ideas displayed in its chamber – the off-bias cuts, the altered silhouettes and glittering notes of the collection.
But the cleverness is in the details that gradually reveal themselves. These aren’t just block colours, or swathes of sharply cut fabric. Look closer and you’ll see the intricate traditional Chinese patterns in the fabrics and materials alongside the hidden dashes of coloured pattern that occasionally burst forth as the models move up and down.
I always think that the complete collection is one that you could buy and it would cover every aspect of a man's life. Lunyee achieve that with panache; the cool long-legged trousers and sleeves perfect for our inclement months, the ultra-cool and edgy shorter looks ready to stroll out into the urban summer, and then the more formal – the fun stylish tailored night on the town, or the office cool kid – it’s all there.
Regular readers will know I have one test I hold above all – would I buy it? It’s a yes. I’d buy every last damn piece of this collection. I can’t wait to see what Lunyee do next.
All photographs by Steven Cornish.
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