London Fashion Week got off to a grey start this morning, an overcast sky looming as the fashion pack shuffled into the Somerset House tent for the first of London’s autumn/winter 2015 shows. At 9.30am, the J JS Lee collection mirrored the skies outside in colour, but it was certainly much less gloomy. Grey dominated Jackie Lee’s signature minimalistic style in a collection that was inspired by memories of her mother hand-stitching clothes, which was evident in the handmade quality of the garments. Shoe lace cords were seen on most looks – threaded through waists and collars and ruffled up like a curtain rail – and pops of colour and texture came from pink and yellow highlights and imaginative placements of shearling. The beautiful, androgynous tailoring looked new and effortless. Fellow Korean designer Eudon Choi showed us more of what he does best – outerwear – in an impressive show that combined heavy, dark leather flight jackets and parkas with more feminine pieces in bright golden and rose satins.
Floral prints mingled with geometric and simple shapes, layering and pockets added a slouchy ease, while pleated and panelled suits, trousers and dresses in silk and leather mixed up the colour palettes. Exaggerated fringing on blanket scarves confirmed a trend already seen in the menswear shows at LC:M – notably J.W. Anderson and Burberry Prorsum – is also sure to be a hit with the ladies.
Outerwear was also the stand out – particularly a cinched leather flying jacket – in Jean-Pierre Braganza's show which lacked rhythm but will commercially translate. Assured of commercial success too was the parade of voluminous dresses and sumptuous tweed and wool coats at Paul Costelloe that will delight his loyal customers and fitted with the grand setting of the Waldorf Hilton's Palm Court. From there, and in the usual end-of-day behind schedule rush, we were ushered into Fyodar Golan mid-show to see a ramped up continuation of the SS15 rainbow inspired colours. Appliqué and childlike embroidery, fluoro fabrics and the rules on proportion being abandoned made up a fun and frivolous show that shook its flagging audience.
Sass & Bide's girl was true to the brand's established aesthetic. Edgy glamour in glittering plays on proportion reminiscent of Beyoncé's ‘Run The World' video – an armoury of leather, metal corsets, broken mirror mosaics and dazzling embroidery which exuded sex appeal but at at the same time said “boy don't even try to touch this”. L'Escargot in Soho was the setting for Le Kilt's first LFW outing. The townhouse setting full to (over) capacity was testament to this young brand's appeal, and after a hot and extensive wait, the collection of beautifully made kilts were presented. In monochrome blocks and classic tartans, the kilts seemed relevant and modern, and offset with ‘She said boom' slogan sweats and T-shirts by emerging artist Robert Gibson.