Although day five faded out rather than banged, there was so much to catch up on from the day before that it felt as though an extra day had snuck in!
From psychedelic swirls at Roksanda and punchy florals and leather at Erdem, to a domino effect of board game brights at Peter Pilotto and columns of gold and red brightening Thomas Tait’s dark Dallas affair, it was a bright and exciting day four of LFW.
Day five saw Michael van der Ham rework his portfolio of dresses to make them feel new for AW15, playing more with lengths and textures and complementing them with jumpers and elegant coats. Marques’Almeida opened the show with a smack of double denim – all raw and ravaged at the hems like their collection for Topshop last year – before moving onto some beautifully draped knitwear in solid green, red, purple and yellow and crystal-studded feather-light silk dresses. Denim with suggestive slits, mismatched prints on little dresses and strapless tops, foiled metallic and a lilac fur coat – with a similar one in red being the only hint this was a winter collection – were fun and more than ready for any East End party girl, but were let down by wet hair and smudged-eye styling that felt more walk of shame than “what time shall we meet”.
Shark motifs and fisherman style jackets at Christopher Raeburn continued the theme of his menswear with boyish quilted outerwear, boiler suits and beanies given a feminine twist. A bubble print stood out and was added to the AW15 mental wishlist that also includes tassled scarves and capes – also shown by Raeburn, assuring him a spot on this autumn’s trend pages.
H by Hakaan Yildirim closed day five showing interestingly structured dresses and corsets with relaxed tailoring that had a Kardashian-esque take on sophisticated glamour. Corsetry in sheepskin and swathes of silk, as well as a print featuring architectural sketches was well-executed but questionable in its relevance. Knitted dresses and a pale pink fur coat with oversized laces were hightlights, as well as the smattering of Swarovski embellishment that closed London Fashion Week for another season.