Highlights from Stockholm Fashion Week

2nd September 2017

Stockholm Fashion Week is a mixed week with a main focus on female fashion – something that will hopefully change in the home country of iconic brands such as ACNE, Filippa K, not to mention H&M. You already had a look at what Stockholm had to offer during the Björn Borg show. Here are the highlights of the other brands that featured male fashion.

Anne Krogh Tolstrup's work explores the possibilities of illusory print expressions in fashion design, through the layering and gathering of opaque and transparent garments. The collection, named Illusory Deception, gives an optical illusion depending on the angle the viewers' look, activating a blur and confusion that is seen throughout the overall expression. Krogh Tolstrup doesn't believe that the world should be seen in black and white and wants to promote individuality through playing with layers and colours.

Daily Routine is a brand that operates in the borderland of luxury fashion and contemporary clothing. In their collection The New World it is the meeting with the unknown and journey to new frontiers which have served as inspiration; the first meeting with the unseen and the exotic, in a mix of Scandinavian minimalism and bravery. It is handcrafted and sublime, colourful and almost ethnic.

Florian Meier traces the visual potential of two-dimensional space in three-dimensional garments and questions aesthetic standards in the field of menswear. The aim is to discuss the visual consensus of flat and spatial construction and it certainly sparked a discussion with the Candid team.

Johannes Adele is a unisex brand founded in Paris by Swedish designer, Johannes Leijonberg and French designer, Adele Gillardeau. Their collection Été Martien sends us greetings from Mars, where we apparently are spending the coming spring and summer. Relaxing around the pool, taking long walks in the garden while wearing their frotté outfits is the idea behind this cool and comfortable collection.

Lazoschimdl presented a rather bold collection, not unusual to their style, this time inspired by a villa with an infinity pool, concrete floors and Memphis Milano furniture. Imagine an orange, amorphous googie sculpture in front of the house and the sky coloured like a Ken Price painting and you've got the collection, named Liquid, pinned down.

Materials include polyester shirts and snakeskin boots and as always with Lazoschimdl, inspiration is drawn from the most unexpected and controversial subjects. Psychedelic drugs and prints, a collection of sex toys and pop art, finding a Tinder match in the 1970s, having sex on a flokati rug, violence and death, taking a champagne and blood bath listening to D.I.S.C.O. and finally falling in love with the image of yourself in the mirror above. Always controversial, yet classy.

L'Homme Rouge is the brand that took home the European Woolmark Prize for the menswear category at the 2017/18 International Woolmark Prize the Europe regional final, at an awards event held in Milan. For SS 18 they found their main inspiration in the dysfunctional Swede and everyday role play. The theatrical craziness and the everyday dullness that that blends in the photographer Lars Thunbjörk's legacy is significant Jante's Playhouse. The garments are of formal origin, such as trench coats, business jackets and shirts and come together in L'Homme Rouge's philosophy on comfortable and poetic aesthetics.

Naemi Gustavsson is a menswear designer based in the south of Sweden and textile developments is a central part of her work with an aim to prolong the relationship and user. Collection02 '31° is all about heat, air condition and transformative textiles; a constellation of garments influenced by sportswear and functional clothing. The concept of the collection derives from how the body impacts the usage of garments, from which Naemi has developed surfaces that will transform when heated.

Nathali Elfström introduced her collection Dress Turned Streetwear – Princessa de la Calle which basically revolves around sustainability and reusing materials. Re-design is heavily looked upon as patchwork, often in smaller pieces and the clothes used as material are often bundled into one category – something that is disadvantaged to the future of sustainable fashion. Nathali wants vibrant colours and details to claim their space and wants our eveningwear to become our daywear.
Photography by Mattias Nordström
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