Copenhagen AW19 Recap

8th February 2019

Candid has been present at most of the fashion weeks around the world and we always seem to land in Copenhagen after an intensive January. Our Fashion Editor, Thomas Falkenstedt, was there and chooses his favourites from this round of Scandi fashion.

Yes, I know, there's more to Scandinavia than Copenhagen, but Oslo and Stockholm unfortunately don't make the cut anymore. As a Swede, this is a sad situation, but thankfully the vibrant Danes usually keep the torch lightened.

Truthfully, this time around Copenhagen Fashion Week was not at its best, but some brands still keep delivering.

mfpen AW19. Photo: Daniel Stjerna

Slick tailoring and wearability

mfpen has, over the years, delivered quite a few presentations in Copenhagen. For each presentation I've been left with a feeling of desire for their designs.

This time around that desire was even greater than before. Slick tailoring and wearability is always a bonus when showing a collection, without becoming the slightest ‘too commercial' for that matter.

The collection Morgenluft – a fresh morning's breeze, is supposedly showing that moment when dusk turns to dawn with a rough night in its wake. My nights aren't that rough anymore, but my mornings tend to feel just the way mfpen wants us to look like: you're in between the two – not going out but neither going home. People drift by you. Their day has just begun and yours is about to end. The sun rises and tells you that the night is over. You take a breath of fresh air and leave for home.

Les Deux

Masculine and clean cut

Les Deux are changing perspectives both regarding time and place. In a Candid interview with Les Deux co-founder, Andreas von der Heide, in October 2018 we can read about the holy binity of Copenhagen and Paris being key locations for the brand, which now has become a trinity, including Berlin. Not just any Berlin however, this collection finds its inspiration from Berlin in November 1989. The fall of the Wall. Berlin is in ecstasy. Imagine the feeling of being reunited with your country, family and friends after nearly forty-five years.

It was a night where a whole new world of opportunities and feelings opened up and this is the essence Les Deux has tried to capture in their Un Nouveau Départ collection. There's a masculine, clean-cut and nearly bespoke air about it which makes you want to somewhat paradoxically join in on the festivities of the newly liberated Berlin – at least for the fashion part of it.

Hærværk. Photo: James Cochrane / CPHFW

Tribal with high-end fashion elements

As for Hærværk I must say I really love the top half of the collection as I'm not much for baggy trousers, let alone baggy trousers reminding me of my teen years in the US during the 90s. The tops, as the jacket above, however are playful, fun and come in vibrant colours.

Hærværk balances the young tribal feeling with high-end fashion elements. Their stand-out looks are exclusive design pieces with a goofy teenager's dull and lazy attitude, which contributes to outfits full of pop cultural references.

While I might be somewhat concerned as to where the 90s inspiration is going to end up in fashion in general, this frolic in colours is much welcomed in a Scandinavian monochrome palette.

Heliot Emil. Photo: Victor Jones

Hidden and subtle details

We remember Heliot Emil heading towards this look with their SS19 collection – strong hints of a utopian utilitarianism, which now is perfected in their AW19 collection titled 311 FPS.

The collection explores an interpretation of what is visible to the naked eye. Pilots are trained by flashing an image of an aeroplane at 1/220th of a second. The highest recorded flash-test was 1/310th of a second, 310 FPS.

What occurs in the 311th frame? This question inspired the prints of the collection to be hidden and subtle. Black-on-black details only visible from certain angles or simply invisible. The collection as a whole is far from invisible and is one of the reasons we keep coming back to Copenhagen each season.

Martin Asbjørn. Photo: James Cochrane / CPHFW

Oozing manly hints

Martin Asbjørn… If Heliot Emil is one of the reasons we go to Copenhagen, Martin Asbjørn is the reason we book a ticket in the first place.

Slightly moving away from a pastel-infused palette and boyish playfulness, a more masculine and mature silhouette emerges. Whereas the models still convey an aristocratic jeunesse, the framing is oozing manly, almost musky hints of where Martin is heading in his design.

The faux fur coat is out of this world and the brown leather, well, it speaks for itself. Martin Asbjørn now undeniably carries the fashion torch which the nowadays Paris-based Henrik Vibskov left behind in Copenhagen.

Martin Asbjørn.
Jesse Cornelissen's collection Juxtapose at the VIA Design Graduate Show was inspired by the music and lyrics by the artist/producer Kanye West.

Creativity with an edge

When it comes to graduation shows and talent awards, they're always something special. It, in some cases, is the last time the designer gets to go crazy with designs if not lucky enough to launch a label of his or her own, before heading to a 9-5 job at a major designer. Sometimes they can be a tad over the top, but at the VIA Design's Graduate Show and Designers' Nest Award Show we got to see the best of both commercial thinking and creative idealists.

In Elena Bergamin‘s collection Urban Anxiety at the VIA Design's Graduate Show style met tailoring to create unusual – but still somehow balanced – silhouettes.
Designers' Nest Award finalist, Juha Vehmaanperä, calls himself the craftiest b*tch in town for a reason.

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